In the U.S., people used to "dress" for cocktails; in Japan they wear robes. Actually they're called Yukatas and each room at the Hyatt Hakone furnishes them, along with a heavier short coat (which is kind of like a bed jacket worn by women in the 1940s) and wooden slippers. Guests are encouraged to wear them anywhere in the hotel during their stay. No really, they mean it. You wear them to dinner, to the spa and, of course, to the lobby bar where they serve free champagne (and it's good stuff), wine and beer from 4 to 7 each evening.
At first I felt really uncomfortable wearing a robe in public. It could have been the fact I can't walk in the wooden sandals provided. I was sure the Japanese guests were secretly laughing at me as I hobbled like a four year old wearing mom's high heels across the lobby to join our friends around the fireplace. But after a few glasses of Piper, and a couple glasses of red wine, I was very comfortable, probably too comfortable.
Russell and I spent the weekend with some friends in Hakone, a mountain retreat just a 30 minute ride from Tokyo on the bullet train, called the shinkansen. I like to think of Hakone as the Big Bear of Tokyo. Big Bear is a mountain retreat just an hour and a half drive outside of Los Angeles. If they had a shinkansen it would only take 30 minutes. As I had never been on a shinkansen or to Hakone, I was really excited.
The ride from Shinagawa station was fast, really fast, hence "bullet train". I couldn't believe how quickly we made it to Odawara station - the gateway to Hakone. If we hadn't had to rent a car that morning and drive three hours to Narita and back to take Ranger to his kennel, the trip would be a cinch. We have GOT to find a more convenient kennel.
From Odawara station we took a small train to Hakone Yumoto station and from there a free taxi (sponsored by the Hyatt when their shuttle is unavailable, but only one-way) to the hotel. The Hyatt was a lot nicer than I expected it to be. Apparently it had been a "private" hotel before the 80s bubble burst and the financial corporation who owned it had to sell it. Fine by me. Our room was very spacious and Asian inspired with a fabulous view of the mountain.
It had snowed right before we got there. It was as if they had dusted just for us. All the trees were outlined in white, like freshly pressed uniforms.
Hakone Yumoto Station
Pretty Winter arrangement in the reception area.
or a dead tree.
I love the Asian inspired screens leading to the dinette area.
Russell in his yukata.
Nice sticks in the background.
Well into our fourth glass and loving it!
After several glasses of champagne and a scrumptious cheese plate, we headed to dinner at the hotel's sushi restaurant. They gave us a private room. Russell, Steve and I had the pre-fix sushi menu, which was great. Sally, who doesn't like fish but loves Japan, ordered steak off the a la carte menu. Russell and I had smuggled a couple of bottles into the hotel and ended up drinking both at dinner, with a little help from our friends, of course.
Pork appetizer in a peanut sauce
Pinot goes better with sushi than I would have thought.
But then Kistler goes good with anything.
After dinner I did something I've been wanting to do since moving to Japan - go to an onsen. For months I'd been trying to convince Russell to take part in this oh-so-Japanese ritual. But he wouldn't do it. Technically "onsen" means "hot springs", although it's generally used to describe a public bath. It is a major tradition in Japan. Communal bathing is thought to be a way to break down barriers in their highly regimented society. Onsens used to be co-ed, but now a lot have segregated into male and female.
Like all things in Japan, the onsen experience is extremely ritualized - meaning: there are a lot of rules. Because of this, and the fact you're totally naked in front of complete strangers, or worse new friends and/or business associates, it was very intimidating to me. But since I was fortified with liquid courage, (have I mentioned before wine makes me brave as well as funny?), I decided to try it.
After dinner, I took my drunk Yukata and clumsy sandal self to the Hyatt onsen. I had carefully read the instructions provided for correct "onsening" in my room. I unrobed, stored my stuff in a locker, and walked naked into the onsen. I went directly to the bathing stall, sat on the tiny wooden bench provided, and tried not to look at myself in the mirror as I rinsed all body parts with the handheld nozzle provided. I washed my hair and my flesh vigorously, just to demonstrate to all the Japanese, who I was sure were watching, they could rest easy, the gaijin would be clean.
I was relieved when the guests already in the two foot deep pool of deliciously hot and steamy water didn't vacate the minute I got in. My friend Sally was already in the bath. It was awesome! I have to do this more often. As I said, onsens are hot springs and are thought to have medicinal qualities. This one was said to cure everything from a headache, to muscle pain, fatigue, cuts and burns, and even the dreaded: "chronic female condition." The brochure actually said that. Chronic female condition?! Did they mean PMS or just our incessant complaining? Apparently the only thing the onsen didn't cure was a hangover and world peace. Well it worked for me. It relaxed me and put me right to sleep the minute my wet head hit the pillow.
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