Kaseki Stumble - I'd Like to Tumble More Often

It was a Friday night and Russell and I wanted to try something new.  But it's hard.  We try,  (think the Godfather) but the hood just keeps-pulling-us-back.  There are just so many good restaurants in our neighborhood.  We started walking, thinking we'll just head up to Azabu Juban and try something there.

But before we could get out of our zip code, we stumbled upon this place.  It looked really nice from the outside.  Nicely lit - usually a good sign.  There were wine glasses and pretty sake glasses on the tables.  The people inside seemed to be having a really good time.  They weren't smoking.  We decided to go in and see if they could accommodate us.  Always a risk when you're an expat.  I can't tell you how many times they say they're "fully committed" upon the sight of us, even though half the restaurant is abandoned.

Apparently, after careful consideration, they had room so we said we'd like a table.  They asked us to wait outside a minute.  I'm thinking, they're probably preparing a table away from the window. They wouldn't want to scare away the locals.  Then the manager came out with a serious look on his face and mumbled something conspiratorially to Russell.  What did he say, I queried when the guy went back inside.  "He said they only serve set courses and they start at 10,000 yen, which means about $120 USD.  "So, I guess they think we can't afford it?"  "Apparently.  But I told them it was fine, " Russell said.

They sat us at the counter all smiles and bows.  One of the men behind the counter looked worried.  I realized it was because he was supposed to serve us and he didn't speak English very well.  This was the kind of place where they explain each course, and you want them too.  We ordered a bottle of Sancerre.  It was tasty and reasonably priced.  So far so good.

We had stumbled upon a Kaseki restaurant.  Basically a Kaseki meal is a gourmet multi-course dinner.  It is actually considered an art form as the entire experience is carefully orchestrated to balance taste, texture, appearance and the colors of food.  Even the serving dishes and presentation are carefully considered and represent the best the season has to offer.

I had learned about this through my reading and cultural classes.  All right!  Bring it!

The Japanese kanji characters used to say Kaseki literally translates to "stone in the bosom."  Huh?
They think this came from Sen no Rikyu who originated kaseki as part of the tea ceremony.  His idea was to equalize all guests by serving a frugal meal like the monks did back then.  Back then the Zen monks would put a warm stone in the fold of their robes, near their bellies, to ward off hunger.  That's usually where I put the wine.

The name of the restaurant was Wake Toku and it was sublime!  I want to come back once a quarter to see how they change the menu.

This was the place setting to get us in the mood.

The wheat represents the harvest and the leaf represents the change in seasons.

I'm sure everything else has a meaning too but this is far as I got.

Amuse bouche

I am very amused.

Creamy, heavenly sea urchin served with a mild sweet custard

Four seasonal vegetables each prepared magnificently.

Look at that tomato.  No this film is not color enhanced.

It tastes as good as it looks.

This is sashimi with different toppings and a dollop of wasabe.

I want this bowl.  Badly.

The wasabe was hand grated on this shark skin

Seasonal mushroom soup.

I'd seen these mushrooms in the store for 3500y or $42

for a small, and I mean small, package.

Abalone with seaweed

Served in the shell

Fish with perfectly crusted top and Wagyu beef 

A closer look, 

note the pine needle for effect.

I don't remember what this was but I loved the crock it came in.

Clearly it was handmade.

And Russell's was different.

Throughout the dinner the one waiter who could speak English would give us a colorful explanation of each course.  When he couldn't think of the English translation he'd whip out his trusty translator.

Their version of traditional miso soup

including house made tofu

Rice pot with spoon

This rice was amazing and not just because it had caviar on top 

Those are pickled vegetables on the side

Pickled vegetables are served with almost all Japanese meals

The variety of veggies they use always inspires me

Dessert was the season of Fall - jellified

The brown portion is a sweat, meaty chestnut

Note the maple leaf

After this meal I felt as content as a monk, with a whole satchel of heated stones in my belly.

It was a religious experience.