Tokyo Blond: All Aboard

Last Friday night Russell and I took a dinner cruise around Tokyo Bay. Sure the Rainbow Bridge wasn't lit up, they're conserving energy, and there were no fireworks because Disneyland isn't shooting them off any more, because of the earthquake, but none of that mattered because nature provided a spectacular show. A luminous full moon blossomed in the night sky and cascaded ribbons of sparkling diamonds across the bay, like shimmering petals on the wind. It was breathless.

So was the food. I don't know, maybe it's because I'm American, so my expectations are low and therefore I'm easy to please. But in America when you go on a dinner cruise it basically means you pay a lot of money so you can ride on a boat and eat less than mediocre food.

But this was different, so different.

Our yacht was the Symphony Classica. We assembled at a reception area on the dock with one hundred anxious Japanese, waiting our turn to be brought aboard one of the two yachts in their dinner fleet. Unlike the traditional Japanese flat boats, called Yukata, these are gorgeous four deck cruising yachts decked out for spectacular parties and eating. Cocktails in the reception area would have been nice, but the view from the dock was pleasant enough.

We were the first to board. I think the steward thought we would get lost since Russell kept asking him if it was time to board yet. They sat us on an upper deck by the window. All the shades were closed so you couldn't see outside yet. When everyone was seated they lowered the lights, the pianist played a fanfare on the piano and all the shades lifted in unison revealing the twinkling bay. Drinks were distributed expeditiously. Our menu order had already been taken with our reservation. On these ships you have the option of six different meals. We chose the French/Japanese fusion meal, one of the more expensive choices. We noted the more expensive the meal choice, the better the seating. Good to know.

We started with a glass of champagne, my favorite beverage, followed by two half bottles of wine (not at the same time). A white to go with the appetizer and fish course, and a red to go with the meat and dessert. The food was a delight.

At first we were taken aback by how small the portions were. But they were so satisfying and the pacing so timely that by the end of the meal we were pleasantly full, not painfully full like we would be after the epic portions served in America.

The appetizer course had four small inspiring samples: abalone, wagu beef, pate and crispy fish.
Next came the fish course which included three servings of ambrosia: a piece of lobster in lobster sauce, a mini crepe filled with crab and bechamel sauce and a perfectly crisped slice of fish with a butter crumb topping. And finally the meat course which included: thin slices of wagu beef, a lamb chop and a perfectly crisped duck breast. These were served with flavor enhancing accoutrements: sea salt for the beef, a basalmic reduction for the lamb chop and a special sauce for the duck.

After dinner the lights were lowered and the pianist played the anniversary song. A flickering cake was brought out to the couple at the table next to us. Everyone happily applauded as they blew out the three candles. Then the lights were lowered again and six flickering cakes emerged while the pianist played Happy Birthday music. I guess Happy Birthday music is the same in every country. Clearly this experience is meant for celebrations. We were celebrating Friday. Well that and the fact Russell returned safely from his around the world trip. Did you know American Airlines actually sells an "around the world ticket".

By the end, I think we were the only table that hadn't received a celebratory cake. But the dessert they did serve us was very special. It was a peach chiffon cake accompanied by creme fraiche ice cream. I don't usually go for foamy confections. They tend to be too sweet for my tastes. But this was delectable. Not too sweet with slices of fresh peaches, not canned. And well, ice cream is always great.

I have this theory. No matter how full you are there is always room for ice cream. Because, you see, ice cream is cold, so it actually makes you feel less full. I firmly believe and practice this theory.

Then the waiter informed us that usually around this time the fireworks from Tokyo Disney would be going off. But since they were cancelled there wouldn't any. In spite of that we still saw a couple of starbursts shoot off from there, probably in conjunction with Tokyo Sea's Fantasmic show. We need to go there I'm thinking.

We also saw a lot of lights from the Haneda airport. The runway is adjacent to part of Tokyo Bay and several airplanes seemed to skim right over our heads.

After dinner they opened the decks up top. So we promenaded above. While it had been unmercifully hot and humid during the day, the sea breeze, still warm but not oppressive, was the perfect after dinner drink. We breathed it and the view in and cherished the adventure we were having and each other.