Chidorigafuchi - Pink Haze

So far our Hanami experiences have been outstanding: the food and drink great, the blossoms sublime, the weather cooperative, and just enough people to make the occasion festive but not enough to be irritating, until Chidorigafuchi.

Chidorigafuchi is heralded as one of the best spots to see the cherry blossoms.  Saturday we found out why.  Technically Chidorigafuchi is a park situated on one of the moats surrounding the Imperial Palace.   It's also a national cemetery.  

We thought we'd be smart and take the Hibaya line to Hibaya station and walk from there. Not smart.  Chidorigafuchi is located at the furthest North-west point of the palace grounds.  It took 45 minutes to walk there with barely a cherry blossom in sight.  I did notice, however, there were actually cherry trees but they weren't in bloom yet.  Note to self: maybe good for later in the season.

And then we turned the corner and saw the tell tell signs of pink clouds in the distance, and the line.  There must have been a million people there, easy.  It was crazy crowded and we hadn't actually crossed over to Chidorigafuchi yet.  We were still around the Imperial Palace.

We kept noticing people on the opposite side of the street, walking along the ridge line and taking pictures. We wondered what they were looking at.  There were no crosswalks to cross the street and traffic was worse than a Madonna concert, so we had to keep going until we finally reached the furthest corner of the Palace grounds.

Ok, this is nice.  But what's all the fuss about?

This is pretty too.

I especially love the bamboo fence line.

And then we crossed the street and beheld what everybody was looking at.  Oh, now I get it.  Wow!

Wow!

There were no tarps laid out under the cherry trees.  That was not allowed.  There was no room for Hanami here.  There were just hundreds of thousands of Japanese, armed with cameras, stopping every few feet to take another shot of the glorious sakura-scape.   The trees had industrial strength lights beneath them, so clearly the place was a spot for Yozakura (night viewing).  It must be spectacular.  I have to admit, even in the daylight it was dreamy.  

Soon we succumbed into a blossom-addicted stupor.  Soon we plodded along, zombie like, shuffling slowly, monotonously with the crowd, shoulders touching strangers, ambling towards the metro station.  It took an hour to get there.  But we were so overcome by the majesty of the view, we hardly noticed.  "This is good stuff, really good stuff" we mumbled over and over, like the sakura crack addicts we had become.

Caution - addictive.

Take another look at your own risk.

We needed food and neon lights to shock us out of our chimera.  So of course we headed to the Ginza, thinking it wouldn't be crowded because clearly everybody in Tokyo was here.  Apparently not everybody.  

The Ginza was crowded as ever.  After we did the gaijin dining shuffle, that is, walk into as many restaurants as necessary until one of them finally agreed to serve us, we dined on a set menu of sushi.  It was good.  I've never had sushi in Tokyo that wasn't superb.  The Suntory Highball helped aid our digestion.

Then we walked around the Ginza for a while in a daze.  Easter was that Sunday and we were hoping to find an Easter basket, or at the very least, a couple of chocolate eggs.  The Japanese don't celebrate Easter, certainly not the religious kind, but they usually observe the capitalistic kind.  I had spotted an Easter basket almost a month ago at a candy/bakery in Ebisu, but like everything else in Tokyo, it's seasonal and gone quickly.  I saw Valentine's chocolates at the end of January, when I went back two weeks later, they were already gone.  

We were starting to get dejected, coming down roughly from the sakura high.  The jonesing had begun.  I guess the Easter bunny wouldn't be coming to our house this year.  Sigh.

And then we saw it. 

I had to blink twice to see if it was really true.  Could it be? Could it be?

No way!

There is a God!

See's Candies!!!!  I heard a rumor there was a store in Tokyo somewhere but I didn't really believe it, the same way I heard there were 15 kinds of Kit Kats, but I've only seen about six.  

But there it was, and more importantly, it was open.  We rushed inside.  I was so excited.  

They gave us a sample, like they do in the states.  They had Easter themed candies, pre-made boxes and fresh pieces you could select out of the case, just like in California.  They didn't carry all the pieces but a lot of my favorites were there, except marzipan.  That's ok. I can work with this.

We bought two chocolate bunnies (milk chocolate for Russell, dark for me) and a one half pound custom box of chocolates.  It was going to be a great Easter and it only cost $65 USD.   $65 USD!!!!!  That's at least three times the cost in the states.  Yikes! I suddenly felt guilty spending that much money on chocolate.

"Of course it is," Russell stated matter-of-factly, "they flew them in this morning."

"First class, apparently," I muttered, the shock melting away to a deliriously happy smile as he handed me the precious, expensive bag.  

Easter heaven

The Emperors Birthday - A Lesson In Order

I couldn’t understand what the old, grand, Japanese woman wearing the full length mink was saying, but I did catch the word “gaijin” and the disdainful look she cast could not be misconstrued.  Roughly translated I’d have to guess she was saying, to her equally well dressed husband, "What the hell are foreigners doing here?  Are they even allowed?" I have to confess I was impressed.  Not with the fur coat, once the weather dropped under 50 fur was everywhere, I was impressed with Russell.  He actually got out of bed early to go to the Imperial Palace with me to wish the emperor Happy Birthday. There are only two days in the entire year the plebes are allowed into the private grounds of the Imperial Palace.  I mean sure they’ll let you into the East gardens, which are lovely by the way, but the minions are only invited to the Emperor’s place twice a year.  Once on his birthday, which is December 23rd and then again a week later on New Year’s Day. Russell and I weren’t sure what to expect but we thought, hey why not, we’ve seen the President of the United States, let’s go.  We did expect crowds and there were thousands.  But we were completely caught with our mouths open at the militaristic order,  the supreme organization, and control of the event. We took the subway at 8:30 in the morning.  We got out at Hibaya station, bickered over which exit to use, and made our way to ground level.  The Tokyo subway system is a marvel.  Like a vast groundhog community with various tunnels that lead you to important destinations and watering holes up top.  Things like the Imperial Palace, the Ginza, and of course, the Peninsula Hotel – one of my favorite watering holes. We popped our heads above ground at exit number seven, expecting the worse.  But what to our wondering eyes should appear, but throngs of well dressed Japanese, streaming calmly through the carefully placed partitions and cones.  We followed in transfixed facination.  Is this really happening? Elaborate system of cones. Looks like a DMV obstacle course. There’s gotta be over two thousand people here.   But there was no pushing, no shoving, no cussing.  No one was trying to cut.  No fights broke out.  As we got closer to the palace grounds volunteers handed everybody paper flags on plastic sticks. Everybody was happy and excited.  It felt like the Fourth of July.  The elaborate partition system funneled us to the security check point where both of us were frisked.  And I mean frisked.  This was no half ass TSA search.  The woman attendant literally felt my ass.  Yep, nothing hidden there but a few extra pounds.  I noted they took a lot longer searching the gaijin than they did the Japanese, maybe because we're larger and therefore offer more area to search. Afterwards we were funneled into numbered holding pens, where we stood in the cold thin sun, like winter cabbages, admiring the orderly regiments of devoted Emperor fans.  The Emperor was to make three appearances.  The first at 10:20 which I thought for sure we would miss.  But at 9:30 the gate opened and thousands paraded in quietly, respectfully, elatedly into the private grounds.  Traditional Japanese music wafted over the crowds from strategically place speakers throughout the grounds.  The music added an air of celebration and formality to the event.  Nice.  I thought.   Orderly throngs of happy Japanese and dumbfounded foreigners  waiting to be admitted into the private palace grounds The massive procession marching happily inside. Crossing the bridge, under the heavily guarded Tori gate. Looks like a toy soldier. Looking back at the crowds behind us. The whole process took just 15 minutes.  Russell and I couldn't believe it.  If this were Los Angeles we'd still be stuck in traffic, suffering from road rage, most likely close enough to see the palace but still an hour from actually parking and an eternity from assembling in the actual viewing area.  We've been to Dodger Stadium for a Madonna concert; we've experienced the worse. I couldn't believe how close we got to the viewing platform.  Or should I say display case.  The area the Emperor was to appear reminded me of the Popemobile.  But it wasn't on wheels.  It was more like a glass box protruding from the formal residence, like a bullet proof doll case. The display case. The press waiting to shoot. Flags of anticipation The crowd waiting excitedly, warmed now by the closeness of others both physically and inspirationally.  We couldn't help ourselves.  We were caught up in it as well.  We couldn't stop grinning. We watched expectantly. At the first flutter of the curtains heralding the entrance of the Emperor, the crowd burst into enthusiastic applause, flags were waved furiously, and iPhone cameras recorded the event for social media. The royal family. The Emperor is the one with is hand up. The Emperor, accompanied by his family, waved appreciatively. He and his sons wore dark morning jackets and ties, with white gloves.  The empress wore a demure silk suite while the princesses were dressed in Easter colors, resplendent with Jacki-Onassis-esque pill hats and suits.  The emperor gave a speech and by the approving murmurs and shouts from the crowd it must have been a good one.  Of course, we couldn't understand a word.  I thought maybe they would translate into English, like they had the other announcements.  But they didn't.  And then the speech was concluded, flags were lowered and everyone exited calmly and orderly.  Wow.  We were in awe.  That was cool.  We were glad we woke up early to participate.  That was a once in a lifetime experience. What now? What could we possibly do to complement what we had just done today already.  I had a brilliant idea.  Why don't we go to the Peninsula for breakfast.  Halfway there I thought we're probably not the only ones with this brilliant idea.  After all there were thousands of people there.  But apparently we were the only ones who had this idea.  The Peninsula lobby, where they serve breakfast, was close to empty except for the compulsory wedding.  There always seems to be one going on in that place.  I never tire of watching them.  This one was Western style, although a lot of the guests were dressed in formal kimono. The Peninsula lobby. Are those flowers for me? After breakfast and a tour of the Graff jewelry store (not for the faint of heart, or those making less than eight figures), we thought we better keep this party going and we descended upon the Ginza like everyone else the day before Christmas Eve.  It was packed.  Russell and I meandered through the wonderous department stores marveling at the goods, those displayed in the store and on the patrons.  It was a veritable feast of wealth. The Santa Clan taking a smoke break. All I want for Christmas is a cure for lung cancer.  Christmas tree made entirely of Teddy Bears. Where's the tree made entirely of chocolate - now THAT would be something. On the Ginza we saw strange things: a clan of Santa Claus's, (or is the plural word "the Santi" a la "the Jedi?"), taking a smoke break.  Cats left by their owner on a sign just to gather a bewildered crowd.  When he approached the cats jumped onto his shoulder and he sauntered off into the crowd with a Grinch-like grin.  His heart grew three sizes that day.

Christmas cats.

They don't look merry, festive bow or not.

Their devoted fans

We both found our Christmas presents that day.  A necklace for me.  A watch (shocking) for him.  We carried our packages home, walking in orderly fashion with glee.  What a great day before Christmas Eve.

Where's My Chocolate Bear?

Last Friday Russell and I spent the night at the Peninsula Tokyo.  Russell had "won" a package at a silent auction held at the Italian Embassy last year.  The package entitled the winner to a one-night stay including dinner for two at their stylish restaurant, Peter, and breakfast in the lobby.  I love how they call it "winning" when you're actually "paying" for it and for probably more than it's worth.

We checked into our standard room around 3p and marveled at all the technology.  In true Japanese fashion, the hotel is a contradiction of traditional Japanese design juxtaposed with high end design and technology.  Case in point, our bedroom area was separated from the closet and bathroom by a sliding piece of rough cut wood.  It was like a giant slice of exotic tree.  Yet next to the bed, the toilet and the bathtub were electronic panels that controlled everything except Russell's mood.

Of all the things in this room what do you think Russell liked the most?

Hint - it's controlled by a remote.

Marble bathroom with "mood" lighting.

Nice closet/dressing room.

Can somebody please tell me where the electronic panel is to control him?

Our view overlooking Hibaya park.

The curtains are electronically controlled.

Which is nice.

We started by taking a dip in the pool.  The pool is located on the six floor and has a commanding view of the Imperial Palace and gardens.  To our horror they don't serve cocktails at the pool.  How can this be?!!    Not only that, they make you wear a bathing cap, and goggles.  I haven't worn a bathing cap since the 60s.  The pool is basically used for fitness only.  It reminded me of the pool at the Tokyo America's Club, aka TAC.  At TAC they have a sign posted which illustrates how many days they've gone without having to close the pool due to various catastrophes including fecal emissions, or as we like to call it, "the baby ruth effect".

Russell and I felt like we were the baby ruth effect here.  When we got into the pool all the Japanese got out.  I guess the good news is we had it all to ourselves.  We took a moment to steal a poolside kiss and hug.  I waited for the alarms to go off.  I'm sure publicly displayed affection is one of the unallowable activities here in the pool. They should add it to the TAC list too.  Thankfully the alarm didn't go off and too soon the Japanese guests ventured back into the water to swim their laps.

We decided to try the "vitality" pool which is basically a giant jacuzzi with a metal bench in it.  I wonder how many guests have racked their shin while getting vitalized.  After a few minutes I wasn't feeling any more revitalized, must have been the lack of alcohol, so we decided to go back to our room for a nap before dinner.

After the nap I made good use of the bathtub and electronic controls.  I've decided I need to redo my bathroom in California this way.  Soaking in the tub I dimmed the lights and waded through the TV channels, then the music stations.  Yes there was a TV in the bathroom.  I thought about calling room service from the in-wall intercom phone, just because I could, but I didn't want to spoil my dinner.   Just imagine this system attached to Apple TV and my entire music library.  Oh yes, it will be mine.

The bathtub.

The TV I controlled from the bathtub.

We went up to the Peter bar for a pre-dinner cocktail but the bar was completely full.  Apparently they're running a happy hour special.  It was quite a deal.  For about $10 you get the cocktail of your choice and a set menu of snacks. I love snacks!  It took a while to even get to the bar as Russell became enamored with this color changing sculpture in the lobby.  I think it's a mind conditioning tool to make you spend more money.

Don't stare too long. It will make you spend money.

Since we couldn't get a drink at the bar we decided to just sit down early for dinner.  We're glad we did because twilight over the Imperial Palace was beautiful.  The restaurant is decorated very avant garde.  It's high drama which in L.A. usually means the food is mediocre.  The tables are black and accentuated with hand blown glass candle holders and silvery place mats.  The space is dramatized with sparkling sculptures that look like silver trees and one side of the restaurant showcases a projection wall which transforms from an underwater scene resplendent with bubbles, can you say Nemo, to crowds of seductively moving dancers.

I really don't think the name "Peter" does it justice. I thought maybe the chef's name was Peter. It isn't.  Russell informed me this is the Peninsula thing, their mascot is a bear and his name is "Peter."  Oh, that explains it, not. But I would like one of those hand made chocolate "Peter" bears they make in the Wonka-esque bakery downstairs, if you please.

Nice view of the Imperial Gardens...and my adorable purse.

Shiny!

Bad picture of me.  Good picture of the 

projection wall with the underwater view.

Our silent auction package came with the standard four-course set meal, although it was anything less than standard.  Russell and I altered our choices so we could try more things.  I liked his choices more.
Damn him.  Thankfully he shared.

Russell's first course - fois gras.

My favorite.

My first course. Hamachi carpaccio.  The blue dots are made of blue cheese.

They look more interesting than they taste.

Meanwhile twilight had turned to thunderstorm and the twinkling landscape of the city flashed brilliantly from time to time.  At first we thought it was the wine, but finally we concluded it was in fact lightening, not mental lapses.

In the morning we had an American style breakfast in the lobby.  It had been so long since I'd eaten toast I had to have two orders, one for my eggs and ham, and one for my butter and jelly.  While we dined the first wedding of the day entered the lobby for pictures.  Some of the guests wore traditional kimonos which I always enjoy seeing.  The bride and groom were dressed in modern style.  She wore a beautiful white gown and he wore a black morning coat.  The lobby pianist played "Here Comes the Bride" and everyone in the lobby applauded.

It was a brief and enjoyable stay but I never did get the chocolate bear, Peter.  Next time Peter, next time.

Let's Get Ready to Royal!!!!

For our anniversary we decided to go royal.  So we visited the Imperial Palace and Gardens.

Russell and I have been married 17 years.  I know because he tells me.  And the funny thing is...I still like him... a lot.  I mean after 17 years of course you love your spouse but to still like him, now that's really something.  He's still the first person I want to tell if something wonderful or deplorable happens. And that's nice.

So yeah, the Imperial Palace and Gardens.  Technically we only caught a glimpse of the palace.  It's really only open twice a year: New Year's Day and the Emperor's birthday (Dec 23), twice in one week. Whoa.   But the gardens are impressive; the only place I've been in Tokyo (so far) where there is actually wide open spaces.

Right off the train we see these giant fish under the bridge.  I mean you can't tell from this picture but they're huge.  What have they been feeding them?  Tourists?

I'm thinking a moat for my next house.

Ok, so how do you get in this boat - jump?

Entrance to the grounds.

This is the largest boulevard I've seen in Tokyo, an army could march through this.
Oh right, they probably have.

I need an ornate lamp like this for my backyard.

Ok so all the tourist guides say the thing to do is to visit the Higashi Gyoen

 (East Garden).

So we did and it was beautiful.

Yes, that's a big ass spider. Scary.

Every where you look the view is planned.

and beautiful.

Lovely little bridge.

With Koi waiting for snacks.

Hey, this looks just like that famous painting by what's his name.

Ok, this is a postcard right here.

And this too.

This is a guest house - can I stay?  

Designated smoking area. 

This is one for my wallet.

I love the ancient moat framed by the 20th century buildings.

You think the original designer had this in mind?

There was an event going on at one of the structures on the grounds.

Everyone came in traditional garb. 

Including us - we wore the dumpy American uniform: jeans, tennis shoes and a baseball cap.

We stopped to picnic in the wide open spaces.  Which is awesome except when you're trying to hide the bottle of wine you brought to go along with lunch.  

Can somebody help me get out of this bubble?

 

We think this is the palace.

Hey! There are swans.

Pretty parting shot.

Across the street from the Imperial Palace and gardens is this totally modern 

water sculpture area, complete with a cafe. 

This clam actually sprays water but I didn't catch it.

Looks like a nice place to eat.

After all the walking around it was time for a pre-dinner cocktail.
The building with the white top on the right is the famous Penninsula Hotel.
Oh yes, it will be mine.